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57½ reasons why people surf!

57½ reasons why people surf! thumbnail

The American philosopher Jim Rohn once said that ‘reasons come first…answers come second’ and this idea lead me to a big question…why do we surf?

Is it for the adrenalin rush surfing gives you, or a pursuit for inner peace? Is it escape from the daily grind or the fact that you can enter into a sub-culture with its own fashion, language and style. So, in no particular order, here are 57 1/2 reasons why people surf – see if you can find the best reason for you.

1. To look cool amongst your peers
Shallow as it seems, image plays a big part in surfing. Unlike some of the other water sports, surfing is generally regarded as quite cool – but then these people don’t see you rinsing out your pee-stained wetsuit, or watch your nose drain seawater all over dinner.

2. It can help you get laid more often
Being a tanned rock god/goddess of the ocean can have its upside, as pro surfers seem to attract pretty hot partners. Hopefully a bit of that Kelly Slater magnetism can rub off on you…though obviously, there are no guarantees.

3. You’re having a mid-life crisis
20 years of working hard in the corporate machine has left you soulless and metaphorically washed up. These days you feel like the walking dead, ready to turn to dust and you’re barely 40. Life is ticking by faster and faster, yet there’s so much you haven’t done…grey hairs are appearing, your kids don’t think you’re cool anymore, your partner won’t sleep with you and has threatened to leave…its domestic hell, and lets face it, you’ve become fu*kin boring. Surfing, is probably the only answer.

The Surfer: A great British surf comedy

4. You want to tick it off your bucket list
If you haven’t been to Thailand, sky-dived out of a plane or run a marathon by the time your 30 you’ll struggle to fit in these days. Surfing is another ‘to do’ on many people’s bucket list. It’s such a ‘must do’ that even the British prime minister David Cameron claims to surf – though you might want to call it dick dragging.

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There has been a real surge in the popularity of stand up paddle boarding in the last few years. The sport has become more and more popular in Cornwall and perhaps nowhere more so than in Newquay.

With some talented local SUP-ers and shapers based in the town, the sport has gone from strength to strength. For some, this is a wonderful thing to see happening, but for others (including many shortboarders) it’s viewed with some cynicism.

As more and more people enter the line up to practice their new hobby on giant boards, can the shortboards and those on ‘big boards’ really live in harmony?

Image by Dave Young

Image by Dave Young

Accused of wave hogging and being a potential danger to other surfers, stand up paddle boarding is not without its critics. But where have all the SUP-ers come from? Have people really traded in their longboards for something bigger…have windsurfers traded in their sails for a paddle…or is it just people ‘giving it a go’?

Whatever the reason, stand up paddle boarding is certainly on the up. So whether you love it or hate it, there’s plenty to talk about when it comes to SUP-ing…here are the NewquaySurfer arguments, for and against.

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How to select the best Surfboard for YOU!

Ok, you’ve had a lesson/s and decided your hooked on learning to surf and want to buy your first board. So what should you buy?…

Some surf shop staff will give you objective advice, others will sell you a board that they want to sell that will get them more commission…or even worse, you might end up talking to someone that may not know very much about surfing at all 🙂

This article will aim to recommend a surfboard to you based on a few factors – how often you surf, where you surf and if you travel a lot.

Though If you’re in a rush, here’s everything in a nutshell:

  • “I only surf 1-2 days a year” = Foamboard
  • “I surf about 5-7 days a year” = Foamboard, Longboard or Minimal
  • “I surf atleast once a month” = Longboard, Minimal or Magic Carpet
  • “I surf a few days a month” = Longboard, Minimal, Magic Carpet or Fish
  • “I surf every week” = Longboard, Minimal, Magic Carpet, Fish or Big Shortboard

Anyway here is an independent beginners buying guide to help you avoid the major pitfalls of buying your first surfboard.

Volume is everything…well almost everything. Selecting a good beginner board has a lot to do with making sure it has plenty of volume. Lots of volume in a board makes it float better and for someone learning it makes it easier to get to your feet and catch waves.

A mistake many people make when buying their first surfboard is not getting one with enough volume. Foam boards, longboards, minimals and magic carpets do have lots of volume. Fish surfboards and shortboards usually less.

Volume is measured in litres. A good beginner board would (in my opinion) be at least 60 litres or more in volume – the more the better. A minimal to longboard size surfboard could be at least 65-80 litres+ of volume. Lets compare this to a performance shortboard that say Kelly Slater might ride…he might ride something like a 6’1 x 18 ¼ inch shortboard. This would be around 24 litres in volume. To ride a board that small well you need to have a pretty solid surfing technique – plus you need the right waves to surf.

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Disclaimer: You must be 18 years or older to purchase CBD products. CBD products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. For medical conditions see your doctor. If you are undergoing any treatment, speak to your GP before taking CBD.

cbd and surfing graphic photo

Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last few months you’ve probably read, heard or seen something in the news about CBD.

CBD is derived from the cannabis plant. It’s actually one of over 100 chemical compounds knows as cannibinoids which are found in cannabis. But is it of any use to surfers?

CBD is different to the cannabis most surfers will know as it does not get you ‘high’. The psycho-active ingredient in cannabis which causes the ‘high’ is THC. This is removed for CBD products. Only a very tiny trace amount of THC remains. This must always be under 0.2% for the CBD to be legal in Europe.

CBD can be produced in every way cannabis might be. If you’ve ever been to the Netherlands or more recently to Canada or any of the progressive US states where cannabis is legal you’ll have some ideas about how the product can be sold and consumed.

CBD can be sold as a vape, sweets, honey, supplements, biscuits, oils, beer, rum, waxes and so on.

CBD can be consumed in pretty much every way that you might consume cannabis.

CBD law in the UK means it is not classified as a medicine. As such sellers and brands should not make medical claims about their product. As far as the EU is concerned its a novel food and you can’t make medical claims about novel foods right?

Yet, this hasn’t stopped many thousands of people claiming publicly how its helped them with a range of conditions. The common ones being that its relaxing (so it may help some with anxiety and depression) or that it might offer pain relief to some users. Though it is early days. There are currently no medical studies to back this up that the EU recognises to have been performed in an efficacious, legal way.

Disclaimer: The following information regarding CBD is not to be construed as medical advice or instruction. This article is meant as parody.

When Might CBD Be Great For Surfers

#Scenario 1

You’ve had to park 2 miles away from the beach and walked barefoot on a gravelly path. You thought things couldn’t get any worse as you finally walk through the dues onto the beach and as you get closer to the water you see broken boards on the beach and no one around them. All you can see for miles are solid double overhead Hossegor style closeouts.

A summary of the problem:

  • Feet hurting like you wouldn’t believe from walking on gravel whilst carrying a surfboard for 2 miles.
  • Anxious about the the double overhead ‘death on a stick’ waves and the graveyard of broken boards.
  • Depressed about having to walk back on the gravelly path barefoot.

With this type of head-space you might even start worrying that someone could be stealing your car too as you’re so in the middle of nowhere, but best to keep a lid on that for now.


A powerful and fast acting CBD solution is needed in these situations.

You want to help reduce pain in your feet and the anxiety from seeing such sh*t surf.

If you’re prepared to sack off the idea of surfing entirely, then a powerful smoke or vape solution may be the only answer. It’s unlikely you’ll be carrying a bong or dab rig so some sort of hand held vape or pipe could hit the spot. Obviously don’t leave any litter on the beach.

If you’re determined to get in regardless of the conditions – then some topical CBD oil for your feet ( you can also use it after on inevitable injuries) and plenty of drops of high strength CBD tincture under the tongue for the anxiety.

#Scenario 2

You’ve popped down to you’re local break with a new surfboard you’ve just bought. You’re a bit late on your rent as a result and you haven’t told your girlfriend yet that you’ve spent your half of the monthly rent on a killer stick and in the rush to leave the house you forgot to do the dishes. However, the surf looks great – so you run into the water and paddle out to line up. On the way out someone with an SUP abandons their board just as a set waves closes out and it comes charging towards you. You try and protect yourself but it hits you on the head and dings the nose of your new board. The SUP-er apologies. But you have a bump on the head and dinged board. You try and ignore what’s happened as the surf is so good and join the line up. Now a nice set wave comes in and you have priority. But then someone from out of town drops in on the wave. You try and give him a polite whistle to kick off the wave as you have priority, but instead they turn around, flick you the Vs and continue to surf the rest of the wave badly – ‘wasting the true potential of the wave’.

A summary of the problem:

In the unlikelyhood you were thinking ahead and took some CBD edibles out into the water with you – now would be the time to take them. The realistic option is to head back to the beach to select the right CBD options – which you’ll want to have in your car.

There are a few issues to address.

  • Anxiety. As you spent your money on a new surfboard and now can’t pay the rent.
  • Nervous. Your girlfriend doesn’t know about this yet, and you have to tell her. Plus your girlfriend may be be super-pissed off you didn’t do the washing up before going surfing. This was the only thing she asked you to do before she left for work.
  • Depressed. The SUP dinged your new board.
  • Pain. From the SUP hitting your head and arm.
  • Stressed & Angry. Someone dropped in on you, didn’t kick out and then flicked you the Vs.


You need the relaxing effects CBD can offer quickly. The solution could be an immediate vape or smoke of CBD perhaps using something like a high powered 200 watt+ mod vape with a large atomiser tank. A high concentration of CBD you can smoke quickly and easily might hit the spot. CBD wax or crumble could also would work well here too.

You could use topical CBD oil for any muscle pain and CBD tincture oil for some slow working internal relaxation. Though this may not be enough for what has just happened and extreme action may be necessary,

You could crack open a bottle of CBD Rum and try and forget about what just happened – just don’t drink and drive!

As you can see there are many powerful uses for CBD and whilst there is no medical evidence to prove it, it may be a great solution for some of the emotional or physical challenges a modern surfer faces.

What say you?

Last week the folks at Igero (based down by Salisbury Plain) sent us some of the latest Oakley Latch Sunglasses to check out.

Igero curate some of the best sports related sunglasses and the team are also keen sports people…so I guess you could say they ‘talk the talk and walk the walk’.


OK so back to the sunnies. They are lightweight and in some ways look like a slightly bigger version of the RayBan clubman design.

The sunglasses were designed with the help of Skateboarders Eric Koston, Curren Caples and Sean Malto and with input from photographer Atiba Jefferson.

The model we tested were the brown tortoise shell style with a dark grey lens colour. The first thing you notice is how light the sunglasses are, but don’t be deceived this as it in no way makes them flimsy.

The lens blocks out the sun effectively while still allowing you to do essential tasks (…which might include posting an Instagram or checking out who likes you on Tinder). The exact model we tested out can be found here.

What is Latch?

Oakley have designed a mechanism for these sunglasses which improves the way they can clip to the front of your t-shirt or jacket.


100% UV Protection

The Oakley Latch glasses offer 100% UV Protection from the sun’s rays. As surfers we know this is super-important as the light around the coast can be really, really bright.

The technical info for any of you geeks out there, is that these sunglasses feature HDO for optical clarity and impact protection.

The plutonite lenses filter 100% UVA/UVB & UVC light. The Plutonite® Lens is optically pure and maximizes clarity. Its impact resistant and filters 100% of all UVA, UVB, UVC and harmful blue light up to 400nm. Its not a coating as such – the UV protection is from the lens material itself.

Super-strong frame for Impact Protection


The sunglasses are designed to offer high protection against high-velocity and high-mass impact.

The 3-Point Fit ensures the frame makes contact only at the bridge of the nose and the sides of the head – holding the lenses in precise optical alignment.

The frame is designed with O-Matter™, which is a strong stress-resistant material which can put up with environmental extremes.

We think these sunglasses are well-designed, lightweight and sturdy. If you’re looking for a stylish pair of sunglasses this Summer to protect your eyes from the sun’s rays (as well as looking good on the beach), then these are well worth checking out. Thanks again to the folks at Igero for supplying us with a sample.

photo montage of different sun screens

We’ve had a pretty sunny summer here in the UK.

I can recall summers past when it felt like I surfed most days and never got sun burnt, and I put this down to a/ crap weather and b/ my trusty factor SPF70 panama jack ‘surf and sport’ sunscreen. It did the job for years and at about £8 a tube, it was worth it. However now I have been informed the EU have banned the SPF 70 sunscreen and its no longer allowed to be sold in the UK.

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The day before the sea mist crept in. The sky looked pretty interesting and it was the first decent surf for a few weeks in Newquay so there were a few folks on the beach. Photos taken on the 23/5/2012.





Sea Mist & Surfers  – Fistral Beach thumbnail

On May 24th in Newquay it was a warm spring day and for most of the towns and villages inland in Cornwall, it stayed that way all day. However along the coast it was a different matter…

At around midday a thick sea mist blew onto the coast reducing visibility dramatically. Most beaches were red flagged and many ferry routes cancelled. However a few surfers (familiar with the beaches) still surfed. Here are a few images from that afternoon.

When most people think of Iceland they think of skidoos, the northern lights and Bjork. I guess if you are a bit more musically minded, you may also think of  Sigur Ros too…either way surfing, is not really something people associate with Iceland.


I’ve visited Iceland before, but this October I was on a mission to get in the water and surf there, whatever it took. After a day or two of scouring the skate shops and sending a bunch of emails I finally managed to uncover some of the local surf scene. Believe me when I tell you that finding somewhere to hire a surfboard and wetsuit in Iceland is not easy. However I was lucky enough to meet Mummi who had just opened his skateboard and surf store JadarSport about 7 miles out of Reykjavik in Hafnafjordur. I whizzed over there to see him.

Xcel Wetsuits at JadarSport

It was cool to see that his store stocked a range of skate, wake board, kayak and surf kit for sale and hire. When I arrived Mummi had to dash over from sorting shipping orders of cod to the UK, but even though he was busy, he offered to take me out surfing and hired me some kit. The next day we headed off to surf a point break near the Reykjanes Penninsula in the south western corner of Iceland called Thorli.

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